hoboのものづくりにおける基本理念である"こだわり"を紹介してゆく『PHILOSOPHY』。今回はhoboの母体であるTNP.co.,ltd 十周年を記念して製作されたhobo × 信三郎帆布カバンの製作現場を訪ねた。
In this section we will be introducing, what we consider the most important aspect of our production, quality craftsmanship. This time we visit the production facilities where the hobo x Shinzaburo Hanpu collaboration bag is being made to commemorate the 10th anniversary of hobo's parent company TNP.Co.,Ltd.
一澤信三郎帆布は1905年創業。京都市東山区に工房と店舗を構え、いまも製作から販売まで、全てをここで営む。
Ichizawa Shinzaburo Hanpu was founded in 1905. A workshop and store was established in Kyoto's Higashiyama Ward where every stage from production to sales are still run.
縫製前の帆布の裁断には、コンピューター制御された電子カッターではなく、昔ながらのハサミを使う。
When preparing the canvas for sewing, the age-old method of manually cutting the canvas with scissors is employed rather than a computer guided cutter.
毎月一度、ハサミ職人（左）が工房を訪ね、切れ味の落ちたハサミを研ぎに持ち帰る。付き合いは先々代から70年になる。（右は信三郎帆布代表の一澤信三郎氏）
Every month a craftsman (left) comes to the workshop to check the scissors and takes those that are blunt away for sharpening. This has been going on for more than 70 years (on the right is the president of Shinzaburo Hanpu).
製作は流れ作業ではなく、二人一組で全ての工程をこなしていく。互いがパートナーの動きを確認しながらカバンを仕上げる。職人は下は20代前半から、上は80代までと幅広い。
Rather than adopting an assembly-line mode of production, the entire manufacturing process is carried out in pairs. Partners operate together making sure of each others work until the bag is finished. The craftsmen and women carrying out this work range from those in their early 20s to 80 years old.
いきなり縫うことはせずきれいに縫えるように、職人が木づちや金づちで帆布に折り目を付けていく。垂直に叩けるようになるのが職人への第一歩だという。
To ensure the bag can be sewn cleanly, craftsmen hammer creases into the canvas. Being able to strike the hammer vertically is said to be the first step of a Shizaburo Hanpu bag craftsman.
細部にまで気を配り木づちを振りおろすベテラン職人。良いモノを作るための労力は惜しまない。
A veteran craftsman hammers the canvas with great care and precision. No effort is spared in forging a quality product.
職人志望者に最初に渡される道具一式。帆布に織り目を付ける叩き台は、切り株(サクラやイチイ)を用いて作られたもの。
These are the tools first passed to an apprentice craftsman. They rest on a chopping block made of Cherry Tree that is used for creasing the canvas.
カタカタと音をたてミシンを操る職人。モノ作りに向き合う真摯な姿勢は、刹那的な企画商品があふれる現代にあって、むしろ革新的にすら映る。
A craftsman operates the sewing machine with great focus and effort.
ミシンもコンピューター制御のものではなく、戦前から使い続ける全手動製のもの。当然「効率」は悪いが、すべては完成度にこだわった結果。
The sewing machines are the same manually operated ones as those used in the pre-war era. Naturally it is less efficient than computerized machines but results in the desired perfect finish every time.
「ちゃんと職人を育てんと修理だって出来へんやろ。だからうちは流れ作業にせんと、二人一組で誰もが何でも作れるように育ててる。うちは身の丈に合った手の届く範囲でのモノ作りと商いをしたいだけやねん」と、一澤信三郎氏（信三郎帆布代表）。
"In order to train a craftsman to the highest level he should be able to repair the product as well. This is the reason we adopt a production in pairs system rather than assembly line. The idea is that anybody knows how to produce the bag from start to finish. That is our philosophy. "
現代の多くの工房が失ったクラフトマン・スピリッツはこうして、今も京都の一角に息づいている。
The craftsman spirit often considered lost in many places is alive and breathing among the small workshops tucked way in the corners of Kyoto.
